We decided to take the bus instead of the train, because we had heard from friends of ours that had taken the route a few days before that the view was better and it's cheaper. We walked quite a ways to the port - the area here is quite a lot nicer than the area where we stayed near the Promenade. The buildings were better maintained and more foot traffic clearly graces this area. If the beach is your thing, stick to the Promenade, but if we had to do this over, I think we would have spent more time in the area near the port in Viexus Nice.
Bus 100 (Nice - Monaco - Menton) costs 1.50 € and runs every 15 minutes. The trip takes about 30 minutes, and it's breathtaking, especially when the sun is out and the sky is blue. Derek and I were gawking, our jaws on the floor, at the view in front of us. We didn't bother trying to take pictures through the bus window...don't be that person. The only trouble was the squealing any time the bus turned (which it did nearly every minute of the ride) from a lack of grease on the pivotal portion in the mid-section.
When we arrived in Monaco, we got off one stop too late right in front of the famous Monte Carlo casino, so we had a bit of a hike up to our hotel, Le Forum. The hike was less than fun, with our bags in tow, and we had skipped breakfast to make the bus as early as possible. Exercise and lack of pastries is NOT my favorite thing.
We checked our bags in, swapped some things out for a day trip to Eze, and headed down to another bus stop to catch our ride to our much-anticipated day trip destination. While we waited, growing very nervous that we had missed it (we had mis-read the time table to think it was meant to be at our stop when it was scheduled instead to leave its initial location), I ran across the street and bought 2 pain au chocolat and 2 croissants (I'm laughing in my head at any boulangerie or patissierie that thinks their minimum credit card charge of 7 € is going to be a challenge. Yes, there's just the two of us, but we're Americans, so 2 pastries apiece is the minimum we'll require. Oh, that one has chocolate inside AND outside? We'll need 2 of those, too.
The trip to Èze was beautiful ("ehz," not "easy" - don't be such an American). We took the 112 bus, which takes roughly 30 minutes and costs 2 € each, but it was worth the longer ride (the train is more expensive but can get you there is 8 minutes) because the ride there is so flipping worth your time. This isn't LA. There are incredible things to see from this bus, the most impressive of which is the clock tower on the church as you near the town. I died. I wanted to jump from the bus to take pictures but decided that was too touristy of me, so instead I begged to walk back along the road once we were off the bus back a mile and a half or so to the best vantage point from the incoming road. Although Derek would have allowed it, even I knew that was a lot to sacrifice for a picture.
I mean it when I say, this place is unreal. It's best to get here early, because thanks to blogs like these and Instagram and epic stories, this place gets to be loaded with tourists. I was taking pictures of literally everything I saw...little alleyways, courtyards, stair cases, tiny shops whose interiors were all still formed from original stone archways from the villager's homes. Derek found it pleasant, but I was flat out charmed to death. I may have blacked out, and when I came to, I must have taken a thousand pictures.
We had read stories about the famous restaurant in this tiny mountain town - Chateau Eza's chef is world renown, the food is incredible, the views are unmatched, and even though a visit will put a big dent in your pocketbook, some experiences are just worth it. This was one of them. The petite terraces that hang off of the edge of the hotel over nothing are reserved for guests. Tragically, one of the downsides of traveling as flexibly as we do is that failing to plan also means not being surprised when you learn that they don't have any openings (you must make a reservation, which you can do at the hotel's front desk). Disappointed, I pouted my way around the compound until I found a new thing to thrill me anew - the "exotic succulent garden" atop the entire castle foundation at the very tip top of this tiny city.
Who would pay 6 € to see a bunch of cacti in France? We did. You should. Because you're not paying for the succulents. You're paying for the unmatched, 360 degree views of this incredible area on the Cote d'Azur. And, quite honestly, their garden was really stellar. I took another zillion pictures while Derek languished in the direct sun, trying to find ways to hide in the miniature shadows that formed, already starting to fill up with tourists.
Derek was...tired. I mean, he's been chronically tired for the last year, so this shouldn't surprise me, but nothing saps Derek's energy faster than lacking water and direct sun. He's like a basil plant. Immediate feedback if propped up with sustenance (which includes not waiting for me to take my ninetieth photo of a doorway). We walked out of the city into a tiny generic restaurant called Le Pinocchio, where overpriced drinks (with caffeine) brought Derek back to life.
We checked our bags in, swapped some things out for a day trip to Eze, and headed down to another bus stop to catch our ride to our much-anticipated day trip destination. While we waited, growing very nervous that we had missed it (we had mis-read the time table to think it was meant to be at our stop when it was scheduled instead to leave its initial location), I ran across the street and bought 2 pain au chocolat and 2 croissants (I'm laughing in my head at any boulangerie or patissierie that thinks their minimum credit card charge of 7 € is going to be a challenge. Yes, there's just the two of us, but we're Americans, so 2 pastries apiece is the minimum we'll require. Oh, that one has chocolate inside AND outside? We'll need 2 of those, too.
The trip to Èze was beautiful ("ehz," not "easy" - don't be such an American). We took the 112 bus, which takes roughly 30 minutes and costs 2 € each, but it was worth the longer ride (the train is more expensive but can get you there is 8 minutes) because the ride there is so flipping worth your time. This isn't LA. There are incredible things to see from this bus, the most impressive of which is the clock tower on the church as you near the town. I died. I wanted to jump from the bus to take pictures but decided that was too touristy of me, so instead I begged to walk back along the road once we were off the bus back a mile and a half or so to the best vantage point from the incoming road. Although Derek would have allowed it, even I knew that was a lot to sacrifice for a picture.
I mean it when I say, this place is unreal. It's best to get here early, because thanks to blogs like these and Instagram and epic stories, this place gets to be loaded with tourists. I was taking pictures of literally everything I saw...little alleyways, courtyards, stair cases, tiny shops whose interiors were all still formed from original stone archways from the villager's homes. Derek found it pleasant, but I was flat out charmed to death. I may have blacked out, and when I came to, I must have taken a thousand pictures.
We had read stories about the famous restaurant in this tiny mountain town - Chateau Eza's chef is world renown, the food is incredible, the views are unmatched, and even though a visit will put a big dent in your pocketbook, some experiences are just worth it. This was one of them. The petite terraces that hang off of the edge of the hotel over nothing are reserved for guests. Tragically, one of the downsides of traveling as flexibly as we do is that failing to plan also means not being surprised when you learn that they don't have any openings (you must make a reservation, which you can do at the hotel's front desk). Disappointed, I pouted my way around the compound until I found a new thing to thrill me anew - the "exotic succulent garden" atop the entire castle foundation at the very tip top of this tiny city.
Who would pay 6 € to see a bunch of cacti in France? We did. You should. Because you're not paying for the succulents. You're paying for the unmatched, 360 degree views of this incredible area on the Cote d'Azur. And, quite honestly, their garden was really stellar. I took another zillion pictures while Derek languished in the direct sun, trying to find ways to hide in the miniature shadows that formed, already starting to fill up with tourists.
Derek was...tired. I mean, he's been chronically tired for the last year, so this shouldn't surprise me, but nothing saps Derek's energy faster than lacking water and direct sun. He's like a basil plant. Immediate feedback if propped up with sustenance (which includes not waiting for me to take my ninetieth photo of a doorway). We walked out of the city into a tiny generic restaurant called Le Pinocchio, where overpriced drinks (with caffeine) brought Derek back to life.
Right inside the city is a giant scent laboratory and manufacturing plant, Parfumerie Fragonard. We decided now was as good a time as any to check it out, so we asked to join their next tour in English (it's free). We learned many interesting things, including that the French have an academy for nose
palates (this does not surprise me). I learned that I'm mad competitive at the interactive program they provided to match aromas with the plants (like, I cared way too much about being right...I should see someone about this when I get back). Citrus is not orange blossom! And I know the difference! BE IMPRESSED.
They took us through the areas where they concentrate the perfume, then on to the bottling area, and finally landed us in the shop where we smelled their many variants for this season. Ile de amour was the best, though they were all lovely. Now we know why real perfume costs an arm and a leg. I considered buying some for someone, but as I said in an earlier post, we don't buy things for people. We love them, yes, but it just doesn't work for us. Even I knew my neck's ability to exude sex appeal wasn't worth what this costs. One day, we'll stop feeling like we need to hoard our pennies, but today is not that day.
JUST KIDDING! Today IS that day! Because what happened next was how we know that we're not cheap, we're just cheap about anything that isn't food or direct travel related. While up in Eze, we had seen over the cliffs below these manicured gardens and super fancy cars and very private areas, and we could not figure out how to get into them. One lawn had a fountain and animal statues, another a giant chess set. Over the parked cars that are worth more than my life (at least to a judge) was a green and gold night on a horse. This place isn't messing around. Then, we cracked the code. Chevre d’Or, the five star hotel where rooms are roughly a grand a night, serves lunch, outside, on the grandest balcony I've seen the world over. It means 'golden goat' in French, but what it really translates to in reality is fanciness.
We ducked into the hotel to ask about lunch, accidentally stumbling into their bar area. It was around 2:30, and even then they made it sound like they may not have an opening, so as we were waiting with the receptionist, considering to cut and run to at least enjoy the bar, she tells us, right this way! We have a table ready. But we personally weren't ready for what we were going to see.
They led us down and around and I don't know how or where we got to the terrace, but we were walking along, passing a glittering pool and incredible gardens and then we're given a spot right on the railings with the most incredible view. I nearly cried. And then we spent like we belonged there. Wine, bottled water, dessert - Derek ordered pizza with edible gold leaf on it! I had the bass with ratatouille (ha! peasant dish in this place! the nerve). When a wasp came to hover over my food, the waiter came with an electric wand to remove her from my presence.
I can't deal. I wander around with the biggest damned grin on my face, trying (and failing) to look like this is my every day life, that I'm not impressed. I head down to the other layers of balconies (for more pictures and to sunbathe between courses, naturally) to see someone with a super secluded balcony being filmed by an actual camera crew. Guys, this is the kind of place where famous people go to get away from non-famous people. How is this my life right now?!
They took us through the areas where they concentrate the perfume, then on to the bottling area, and finally landed us in the shop where we smelled their many variants for this season. Ile de amour was the best, though they were all lovely. Now we know why real perfume costs an arm and a leg. I considered buying some for someone, but as I said in an earlier post, we don't buy things for people. We love them, yes, but it just doesn't work for us. Even I knew my neck's ability to exude sex appeal wasn't worth what this costs. One day, we'll stop feeling like we need to hoard our pennies, but today is not that day.
JUST KIDDING! Today IS that day! Because what happened next was how we know that we're not cheap, we're just cheap about anything that isn't food or direct travel related. While up in Eze, we had seen over the cliffs below these manicured gardens and super fancy cars and very private areas, and we could not figure out how to get into them. One lawn had a fountain and animal statues, another a giant chess set. Over the parked cars that are worth more than my life (at least to a judge) was a green and gold night on a horse. This place isn't messing around. Then, we cracked the code. Chevre d’Or, the five star hotel where rooms are roughly a grand a night, serves lunch, outside, on the grandest balcony I've seen the world over. It means 'golden goat' in French, but what it really translates to in reality is fanciness.
We ducked into the hotel to ask about lunch, accidentally stumbling into their bar area. It was around 2:30, and even then they made it sound like they may not have an opening, so as we were waiting with the receptionist, considering to cut and run to at least enjoy the bar, she tells us, right this way! We have a table ready. But we personally weren't ready for what we were going to see.
They led us down and around and I don't know how or where we got to the terrace, but we were walking along, passing a glittering pool and incredible gardens and then we're given a spot right on the railings with the most incredible view. I nearly cried. And then we spent like we belonged there. Wine, bottled water, dessert - Derek ordered pizza with edible gold leaf on it! I had the bass with ratatouille (ha! peasant dish in this place! the nerve). When a wasp came to hover over my food, the waiter came with an electric wand to remove her from my presence.
I can't deal. I wander around with the biggest damned grin on my face, trying (and failing) to look like this is my every day life, that I'm not impressed. I head down to the other layers of balconies (for more pictures and to sunbathe between courses, naturally) to see someone with a super secluded balcony being filmed by an actual camera crew. Guys, this is the kind of place where famous people go to get away from non-famous people. How is this my life right now?!
We dragged our feet and stayed at the restaurant as long as we could manage before we slowly exited (with grace, no one had to drag me...but only because there were incredible sights to see on the way out through the gardens). We took a peek inside the church, the main focal point of the town, and ducked into a shop to buy some lavender and soap for some people we knew would actually appreciate it to the right level.
Back to the bus. I can't stop smiling. My camera memory is bursting. And Derek is caffeinated and equally floored that this was our day. This place is the stuff of dreams.
In Monaco, we checked into our hotel and decided to catch a nap before rallying for an evening in this opulent town.
Back to the bus. I can't stop smiling. My camera memory is bursting. And Derek is caffeinated and equally floored that this was our day. This place is the stuff of dreams.
In Monaco, we checked into our hotel and decided to catch a nap before rallying for an evening in this opulent town.
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