So, I wandered down the street in search of the taxi and instead found a gathering of people. I assumed it was some sort of bus stop - there was no sign indicating that it was, but that didn't surprise me. I asked a girl if there was a bus to Thamel. She told me to wait. I saw a taxi pass and contemplated calling him over when a gigantic green bus came around the corner. The girl pointed at it. I assumed I should get on, so I did.
I jammed myself into the crowd of people, squeezed into every available crevice the bus had inside to avoid hanging out the door. Buses in front of us had people also packed on the roof. Due to the gas crisis, people are taking public transportation much more frequently than before, and at dangerous levels as was evidenced last week when a bus went off a cliff killing 30 people inside and on the roof. A short girl next to me replied in English when I excused myself for bumping into her (who am I kidding? Everyone is touching everyone else - there's no avoiding it). I asked her if she had any idea how far it was to the area I wanted to go, and she offered to tell the driver to kick me out at the right place. I didn't recognize the area she decided I should get out on - she told me I'd have to walk the rest of the way - but I didn't have a better plan, so I agreed. We chatted about her job until her stop, then I was on my own. At one point, I leaned forward and looked at the driver, who had forgotten about me. He kicked me out right away, probably realizing he should have dropped me off earlier, given the walk I saw I had ahead of me. The ride cost me only 15 cents. Winning!
I found the center, breathless for walking quickly. I expected the class started at 9:30, so when I came in at 9:45 and apologized for being late, they told me I was early and had me wait with milk tea for the others. A gent named Phil from the Lake District in England was there. He had asked to learn how to make Dahl Baaht, and as I didn't have a preference, that was our focus. The lovely chef, Sakuntala, lead us to the market, a small shop where we picked out vegetables. The orange and green lentils are the basis for Dahl, a bean soup that is at the center of Nepali cuisine. Baaht is rice, another staple. We chose to make a cauliflower curry with it. Want to cook with them when you're in Nepal? You can sign up here.
We cleaned all of the vegetables with sink water and then with "jar water" as our western stomachs required additional scrubbing with purified water if we wanted to avoid being ill (eh, I think if you're eating regularly in the city, they're likely skipping the jar water wash - just being realistic). For the record, I've not gotten sick yet, and I LOVE street food. If they eat it, I eat it. If there's a line or a crowd, make Anthony Bordain proud and get in line. We followed her instructions and came out with a terrific lunch.
After we ate, they shuttled me to a terrific shop run by Uday called Snow Land. Social Tours refers people to his shop, and he gives them quality products and a fair price. I bought some things there (had to hit the ATM, as no one ever takes a credit card), and when I found a Euro in the pocket of a fleece jacket, they knocked the equivalent off of my final bill. Classy guy :-)
I liked the first class so much, I decided to stay on for the afternoon class to learn how to make Aloo Paratha (aloo are potatos, and paratha is the bread that they're stuffed inside). Phil and I skipped the market visit and let our new additions go on their own - a German and a Canadian who live in Hong Kong. We looked at pictures from Phil's 27 day trek in Bhutan while we waited.
With this class, we got to do our own rolling, prepping the bread skin to be filled, tied, flattened and fried on a tava, a flat pan without sides. Traditionally, this dish came from India and was made in a tandoor (clay oven). Add ghee (clarified butter) and homemade tomato/mint and chili sauces, and we had quite the meal! We even did a few stuffed with sugar - gotta love that they cater to the western palette! It tasted like toffee.
Then, I hauled my giant bags from my Snow Land purchases to the bus stop (yes, this does have to do with my mystery plan, which hasn't been revealed yet for a reason - hang in there!), and ran to grab the government bus just leaving. This time, I was precariously hanging near the door, with my bags swinging unprotected. A kind girl who spoke excellent English (she blushed when I told her so) offered to hold my bags up on the dash near the driver so I could get further in. We chatted about her job, America, etc. This time, locating my stop was easier, now that I'm more familiar with my surroundings.
Derek wasn't home when I arrived, so I popped next door to collect a local phone that my neighbors were holding for him. The husband talked at length, telling me about his visits to the states in the 80's to Kentucky and Kansas (so random). He invited Derek and I to his daughter's wedding, starting on the 23rd (they are many days long) in order to introduce us to that important aspect of their culture. I couldn't believe it!
A truly incredible day. What an amazing culture and people with whom to spend our time!
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