Blitzin´ Lisbon

Landing in Lisbon after a sleepless flight overnight, the pilot announces visibility of just a few hundred feet. Disconcerting, given the beautiful rooftop views required of any visit to Lisbon.  We would see how the day would unfold.

Portuguese buildings are replete with beautiful ajulejos tiles that make an impression even in disrepair.

From the airport, we took the number 1 aerobus down the avenida libertad to the city center, which is the beautiful square otherwise known as Rossio. We recommend taking the metro instead, as it only costs about 1.4 euro to the aerobus´ 3.5 euro, and the ´24 hour aerobuss pass´a ticket purchase grants you is a false promise indeed, as their lines aren´t needed during our visit. Riding down la avenida libertad, however, was quite a welcome to the city. Lisbon certainly makes a powerful first impression, with mosaic tiles and grandiose statues at every corner. While Kendra pulls my sleeve to get me to look at an elaborate fountain, I am too distracted by the storefront of Lamborghini Lisbon. 

Arriving at Rossio square, we were immediately taken by the fountains and architecture. It was wonderful to be in rossio having just been watching Wolter´s World videos of the area from the States just one week prior. Mosaic tiles form a black-and-white wave pattern throughout the square, interrupted by massive statues, and all backdropped by the gorgeous national theater. Opera music from a  nearby restaurant completed the ambience perfectly. 

We wandered down to the rua (street) Augusta towards the equally beautiful Proco do commercial, grabbing a chocolate croissant for 1 euro along the way. 

The Praco is just as easily described by the same flowery language. 

Now feeling the tug of our backpacks on our shoulders, we were in need of a hostel. We headed over to the Living Lounge Hostel, but it was full. Apparently we were short sighted in not booking a hostel or hotel online in advance, we strongly recommend you not repeat our mistake should you make a visit. Google chat with other hostels found an opening at the Poets Hostel. The Poets Hostel was wonderful, with exceedingly helpful staff, organized activities in Lisbon, a great lounge and kitchen, as well as a lovely if spartan room for the night- decorated in marker with the poems of an infamous, schizophrenic Portuguese poet.

Our stay was 40euro for the double and 50 euro the next night in their apt nearby.

After that we took the yellow 28 tram (2.85 Euro) from the stop just outside the hostel. The 28 line is infamous for running along the tourist attractions from the castle san jorge to the basilica estrella. The Yellow are general public and the Red are tourist, but in our rush and jet lag we got on in the wrong direction, worsened still by getting off a stop late and walking back up a hill (walking up and down hills is apparently also a thing in Lisbon...). Still, our irritation with ourselves was tempered by landing at the view point (Miradouros) Das Portos do Sol, where we took in the best view of Lisbon out over the Alfama district as well as the museum for azulejos. 

Now we walked up the hill to the castle San Jorge (tickets 15 euro). A map guided us through the archeological digs, up into the castle tressels,  and along the wall, taking in jaw dropping views of lisbon´s red rooftops, glowing less brightly given the overcast day. 

Reading about the history of the castle was quite interesting, and peacocks showing off in a brilliant display completed the experience. 

Without time to rest we walked down the hill to the Se Catedral, with an awe inspiring compilation of mural paintings, stain glassed windows, and the musky-damp solemnity only found within cathedrals. 

It was a this point that the wheels came off, the second law of thermodynamics kicked in, and everything moved towards chaos, as we tried to make our way to the Belem area of Lisbon. We again got on a tram in the wrong direction, and subsequently tried to get a 6 Euro day pass (for unlimited transit use) but the office was closed. Dejected, Kendra sat on a nearby bench and covered her butt in an unknown sticky substance. It wasn´t the best of times, so we cut our losses and headed back to the hotel to catch a long nap. Waking up refreshed, we walked down to the Baixa area to get pizza. 

Portugal is famous for its wine, and the porto did not disappoint. Warmly spiced in flavor, it's like Portuguese Christmas in a glass and kept us warm on a night tour around the area.

 Dinner was also good energy for a Poets Hostel led tour of Fado. Fado music is part of the heart of Portuguese culture. A mournful genre of almost folk music, Fado was best described by our "guide" Tita when she said, " Fado is very, very sad... it is anguish, lust, despair." Unfortunately, it is also expensive, as many restaurants providing fado singers are quite pricey. Luckily, Tita knew of a place where Fado was free, and we wandered down there along with her lovely parents and two hostel mates to listen to the various Fado singers showcased at POVO restaurant.

If you would like to see Fado Stamos perform yourself, just look for the throngs of swooning women

 Over a tiny glass of Porto wine, we listened to the sorrowful and at times peppy music. Our favorite was the charismatic young man currently completing his residency at Povo, with his boyish good looks quickly earning him  the nickname "Fado John Stamos" or `fado Stamos` for short. It was a wonderful ending to an intense first day in Lisbon.